Strong Faction Commitment cards get a weighting of 75 per card. To determine the relative strength of each faction (in my opinion), I took my rankings, assigned weighting to the categories, and added the relative strength of each faction for each category.Īlways Strong and Draft Direction cards get a weighting of 100 per card. In general, once you have a Draft Decision card, cards of the same faction in the same category are generally better. The number after the ~ is the adjusted value. My rankings assume that you have the required cards to activate Loyalty/Ally. I then ranked all of the cards in those specific categories. I went through and divided all of the cards in the base set into the 6 categories explained above. This is probably my favorite part of Epic. As long as you pay attention and learn from your mistakes, this will become easier. Until you understand the relative power of cards and combinations, it can be incredibly difficult figuring out: when to counter your opponent and when to improve your deck. This aspect of drafting takes awhile to learn. It’s generally a bad idea to let your opponent get both Psionic Assault and Thought Plucker. If it is banishment based removal, Thundarus. If they have a lot of targeted removal, Steel Golems and Sea Titans are even better. If they are going for a token strategy, deny Courageous Soul and prioritize Flash Fire, Hurricane, etc. If they draft Lightning Storm, Psionic Assualt, or other discard dependent cards, Guilt Demon and Keeper of Secrets get better. In addition, White Knight becomes significantly better. If they’re going Evil, deny them Evil Draft Decision cards. On the simplest level, if you see your opponent take Angel of Death, don’t let them have Necromancer Lord too. If you can work out your opponent’s strategy, you can pick to counter that strategy. The more reliable draw you have, the more 0-cost cards you can run, up to about 10. In addition, in a 30 card deck about 6 cards should be 0-cost. To avoid this, it is very important to have at least half your deck be Fast cards. Gold-recall and gold-activated abilities can mitigate this to an extent. Usually, this is because you have no Fast cards (ambush champions and events) in hand. This happens when you have no way to spend your gold on an opponent’s turn. The closest thing Epic has to mana-flood/mana-screw is slow-flood. Not committing early also allows you to adjust your strategy based on the cards available later. I would much rather have strong cards in multiple factions, than weak cards in the same faction. Since you aren’t guaranteed to see the Draft Decision cards of that faction in your draft, and your opponent might get them before you, taking sub-optimal, slightly synergistic cards can be severely disadvantageous. It is not worth it to draft faction specific cards early, if it means drafting Weak Faction Specific or lower category cards. When drafting Epic, you never want to predetermine the faction(s) you will pursue it is very possible there won’t be many amazing cards of that faction in your specific draft. For the remaining cards I draft, I avoid Loyalty 2 and Ally abilities. For the factions I support, I will take cards that rely on their Loyalty 2 and Ally abilities to be useful. While my decks usually contain all 4 factions, I frequently try to support only 1 faction, sometimes 2. Once I am able to grab a Draft Direction card, I begin to focus on supporting that faction. In general, I focus on drafting Always Strong cards, and other useful, non-faction specific cards first. Drafting a winning deck relies on 3 aspects: getting powerful cards/combinations, balancing the type of cards in your deck, and countering your opponent’s deck.
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