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Our plane departed Quito a half hour or so late, but was eventless to Miami where we had a long layover before our connecting flight to Seattle.
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We should have bought some alcohol at the duty free store because hours later, to our shock, there was no customs check in Miami. Not helped by two loud mouths who had to be told to shut up, we probably got at most a few hours of sleep. Apparently others had the same idea as the lounge area which at least had some recliners and dark areas was pretty full.
We had probably our worst dinner in Ecuador but ok for a Plan C. So we skipped dinner and repacked, said goodbye to Mercedes and Puembo Birding Garden and went to the airport with Jorge and Jorge. We developed and followed a Plan C – pack up early, go to the airport right then and spend the night there. None of that sounded good if there were demonstrations and in the back of everyone’s mind was the possibility that the demonstrations would move on the airport.
Plan B if there were road closures was for them or Mercedes to take backroads which would add an hour to the trip. The plan was for Jorge and Jorge to pick us up then and get us to the airport. With no road problems that would mean leaving Puembo around 3:00 or 3:30 a.m. We were supposed to get there at least 2 or even 3 hours in advance. Our flight from Quito to Miami was due to depart at 6:40 a.m. We were getting word that there were threats of expanded demonstrations and possible road closures the next day.
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It was a late lunch at Tambo Condor and then a two hour plus drive back to Puembo. Scope views were great but good photos were hard to come by due to the distance. Whatever the number, this was a large concentration. Online statistics vary but the number of wild Andean Condors in Ecuador seems to range from a low of 50 to a high of around 100. Altogether we counted 15 Andean Condors – a very high number. The good news is that there were Condors – lots of Condors – some soaring above the cliffs and others perched on the cliffs possibly with some prey. The bad news was that the condors were pretty distant, across the river valley, pretty far away. The weather was perfectly clear but when we arrived at around 9:00 a.m. We fortunately had no road closures from demonstrations but Jorge was not the world’s fastest driver. The Condor overlook is about two hours from Quito. It is best to arrive early before the rising heat creates thermals that the Condors ride away. The second hope would be that one would soar close enough for a photo. Here the first hope was just to see one of these magnificent birds – the heaviest and with the largest wingspan of any bird of flight in the world. I had seen an Andean Condor in Peru and got an ok photo. The garden attracts other birds including many hummers. On the way up to the Antisana, our first stop was at Tambo Condor an ecotourism site in Ecuador that includes a restaurant, lodging, feeders and adjoins an overlook which is the best place in Ecuador to find Andean Condors which often roost on the cliffs across the river. This day at 14,000 feet Jorge was careful to tell us to take it easy. We did not do any strenuous hiking but we had expected at least shortness of breath. Cindy had a small headache one afternoon, but otherwise we were surprisingly unaffected by the elevation. We had been at high or really high elevations for all of the trip except our time in the Amazon, mostly over 6,000 feet and often over 10,000 feet. Now the challenges would be finding the birds we sought, not getting sun burned in the thin air, and … breathing. The weather looked great – blue skies and not as cold. We would be higher than we were the previous day – over 14,000 feet.
Jorge and Jorge were right on time as usual and all systems looked good for our trip to the Antisana.
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That night at Puembo we learned that the road would most likely be open so our guide and driver would pick us up in the morning and head out … unless conditions changed overnight and we would find an alternative. Now with the unrest returning, there was concern whether we could get to Antisana. We learned, however, that several tours had been canceled and even that some people had come to Ecuador only to find that their trip to the Galapagos had been called off. So far our decision to chance it had paid off and we were glad that we had not bailed out early and flown home. The plan was to head back to the mountains on Day 14 to the Antisana Volcano and surrounding area and then return to Puembo for our last night before an early trip to the Quito Airport for our flight home. The civil unrest had quieted but it looked like it was heating up again. After Cayambe Coca, we returned to Puembo Garden.
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